Convert Any Bike to Electric with an Easy Front Wheel Motor Kit
Where it comes to how to build an electric bike, a front hub kit is going to be the easiest. You will need basic bike mechanic skills, the tools that you have for that maintenance, tools for simple wiring, and some judgment as to how it looks and feels. The kit will come with a wheel that has been pre-threaded with spokes and the rim. Sep 25, · How to Make Electric Bicycle at HomeYou can make an electric bicycle at home using watt dc motor and power bank. You need to buy an electric bicycle kit Author: Creativity Buzz.
Electric bicycles have gow quietly taking the streets by storm in many parts of the world. You get all the joys nake freedom of riding a bike avoiding traffic congestion and parking, for instance while smashing through physical limits on your ability to climb hills and cover great distances. While there are many factory-made e-bikes these days, the movement was really pioneered and championed by a DIY maker community in the late s and early mae who now electrifying their own bikes from scratch.
You too can join in this phenomenon with just a spare afternoon. Hub motor wheel is small and lightweight 5lbs and runs a totally silent helical gear system. This motor is already laced into a c rim, common on road and hybrid bikes.
Battery pack We chose a how to make a electric bike, Motor controller The Baserunner motor controller in this system is built into the mounting cradle of the battery pack. On other kits the controller might be built into the motor, or supplied as a separate box.
Torque arm secures the motor axle to prevent it from spinning inside the frame. The motor itself has tabbed washers which do the job in many cases, but a proper torque arm provides extra security and is essential on weaker aluminum forks.
Throttle regulates the power you get from the motor. Spiral wrap and zip ties hold the motor extension cable and throttle wires snug against the frame and help the whole installation look neat.
The following steps work the same for any ordinary bike. In this build, one of our new staff ohw Grin Technologies hi Stuart! Once the tire and tube are off, install them on the hub motor wheel by reversing that process.
Nake you install the front motor, make sure the cable exit is rotated to point downward and the disc mount is on the left side of the fork. Spell to make someone do what you want this point, the motor is installed on the bike.
Bkie make sure your front brakes are working again. If you have rim brakes, you might need to adjust the pad position to account for the width of the new rim. If you have disk brakes and installed a disk rotor on the hub, then adjust the caliper left or right so that it spins without bime. These attach securely to your rlectric tubing with hose clamps and allow you to how to make a truck diaper cake the battery anywhere you hike.
These grips have Allen screws for cinching to the handlebars; simply loosen the screws and slide them right off. The thumb throttle can be located on either the left or right side, and because it adds some extra width you may want to loosen and reposition the shifter and brake levers so that they can be reached comfortably without your hand feeling squished. Slide the throttle into place and find a comfortable location for it and the mae lever and shifter, then tighten them up and slide the grip back on.
Route the throttle cable to follow one of the brake or shifter cables, using the spiral wrap tubing. It comes forward from the handlebar and then loops down along the down tube to the throttle plug on the motor controller. This cable runs up the side of the fork, held in place with cable ties, and then follows the down tube to the matching plug on the motor electriv. Use cable ties as needed and snip off the offending pieces. But before running the system, always double-check these details:.
Grin away! Your newly converted e-bike will easily cruise at 20mph on flat ground. The basic throttle control allows you to determine exactly how much power you want from the motor at any time.
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Share via. Old mountain bikes are usually ideal platforms, but almost elecyric road bike, beach cruiser, or hybrid will work too. The only important detail is that the front fork has ordinary slotted dropouts not a modern high-end thru-axle system. Hub motor conversion kit Many suppliers offer conversion kits that normally include the motor, battery, and all mak controls needed to run the system.
How to Make an Electric Bike Yourself in 7 Steps
Feed the main power connector from the driver pocket through to the battery pocket. Next, feed the wires from the motor and brake levers through the large grommeted hole in the bag, through the battery compartment and into the driver pocket. Use zip ties to secure the motor and brake cables along the body of the bike. Jul 21, · Once you’ve got an electric bicycle it’s easy to leave the car parked in the driveway for all those short and medium-length errands. The e-bike will get you there faster, and with a 98% lower carbon footprint! While there are many factory-made e-bikes these days, the movement was really pioneered and championed by a DIY maker community in. Apr 21, · Electric bicycle conversion kits are available that allow a cyclist to convert a standard pedal bike into an electric bicycle with the same performance as retail electric bicycles, but at a.
My name is Luke and I built a really fast electric bicycle that I also use as a replacement for my car! Don't worry if you don't know much about bikes or electronics I don't either. I'll do my best to make this Instructable readable for everyone that's interested. What is an E-bike, you ask? It's a regular pedal bicycle that has been converted to be driven by an electric motor.
The motor can either supplement pedaling or drive the bike by itself like an electric motorcycle that happens to have pedals. This will be discussed in more detail in the following steps. So, why build an E-bike? Brace yourself, this is the boring section. Feel free to skip it and move on!
If you're here for the long haul, here are the main reasons that I decided to pursue this project. Time to build a bike. Where to start? This step will outline the design process and some options I considered before finalizing a design. Then the next steps will go into detail about choosing parts and putting it all together. Before you can convert a bike to an electric bike, you need the bike.
The two main choices are mountain bike or road bike. Consider where you will be riding, the size of motor you're interested in, and how much pedaling you want to do.
In general, mountain bikes are more stable due to wider wheels and heavier frames. Road bikes also generally don't have a suspension system, which means you'll feel every little bump. So, I personally think the safer bet is a mountain bike, and you still have tons of options for getting exactly what you want out of the bike. For those on a tight budget, pulling the dusty old mountain bike out of your garage might be the best bet. Craigslist is also a great source for cheap used bikes of decent quality.
For new bikes, sites like BikesDirect have some really good deals because they cut out the middle-man retailer. If you find something that's almost what you want, it may make sense to purchase that complete bike and swap out any components you want to upgrade that's what I did.
Finally, if you're feeling ambitious, you can always just collect all of the parts that make up a bike and assemble them all yourself. Depending on the size and power of your motor, it's important to make sure that your bike of choice can handle the extra stress and weight of your conversion. One last thing to mention is that building a bike up from parts is not necessarily less expensive.
In fact, it's often more expensive. The tradeoff is that you get exactly what you want and don't pay for anything else. A hub motor is one that replaces either the front or rear wheel hub the middle part and occasionally both wheel hubs. They are generally the lowest cost option, most discrete, and lowest powered. They are commonly sold in power ratings of to 1, Watts.
Mid-drive motors go - you guessed it - roughly in the middle of the bike. They generally have an extra chain that drives the front crankset, which then drives the rear wheel. One of the coolest advantages of mid-drives is that they let you shift through your rear gears as you could on a normal pedal bike. This gives you a good range of speed and torque for everything from climbing steep dirt hills to cruising along your commute to work. I've seen mid-drive motors in powers from to 10, Watts.
There is a practical limit to power here. At some point I'd like to say it's around 3, W , the amount of torque and speed is just too dangerous for a bicycle.
Additionally, bicycle components are usually not designed to handle super-human amounts of torque. At the very least, your components will wear faster than normal; at worst, components will break as you ride think wheel getting bent out of shape, chain snapping, chainring bending, etc. If you really want that much power, I'd suggest a small dirt bike or motorcycle. The motor I got is the " Cyclone " which is rated at 3, W. So far that's more than enough speed and torque for me.
Mostly kidding about this one. You certainly can take apart a chainsaw and strap the motor onto your bike to make it go, but it's probably a gas motor not electric , so it doesn't belong in this Instructable. The number of tools you will need depends on how much you plan to build a bike up from parts as opposed to buying an off-the-shelf assembled bike. Here is what I'd consider the bare minimum toolset for this project:.
Nothing in it is high quality, but the tools do the job. On the other extreme, you can buy all the parts you need individually and assemble your own bike. This last option is most nearly what I did. The complete list of parts and pricing I used can be found here. So, this is a long and intimidating list. Some things are definitely worth upgrading and getting right like brake calipers and rotors.
On the other hand, I didn't feel the need to spend time and money on many parts, like nice handlebars or a stem. This brings us to the next optional step: finding a donor parts bike. If you bought a mostly or fully complete bike but want to replace some parts, start ripping it apart! Well, use your bike tools and do it carefully. Rather than write an essay here on how to remove every component, I'm going to suggest you learn what you need as you need it.
If that doesn't work, try some google searching. Finally, your local bike shop is always good for advice and, if you're really stuck, you can pay them to just do something for you. Motor types were discussed a little bit in Step 2. The size and type of motor you get will determine how fast you can go and how quickly you can accelerate.
The most common battery chemistry used on E-bikes is Lithium-Ion. I won't go into battery chemistry, so do some googling if you're interested. Most E-bikes use a pack of many cells wired together to effectively make one big battery. A cell is just a specific lithium-ion battery that's a little bigger than a household AA battery. You can make your own battery pack, but that would be a whole separate Instructable.
Battery packs are sold with a voltage in Volts and capacity in Amp-hours or Watt-hours rating. Common battery voltages are 24, 36, 48, 52, 60, and 72 volts. A higher voltage battery generally translates to a faster and stronger response from the motor.
More capacity means the battery can store more energy, so it can power the motor for a longer time before needing recharging. Here's an example: I got a 60 V Volt , If you multiply those together, you get Wh Watt-hours.
If I go out for a ride and my motor uses an average of Watts of power while riding, then I can ride for 2 hours before my battery is completed discharged. Higher voltage and bigger capacity batteries are heavier and bigger.
This component is the interface between all of the other components. It controls signals and power to make your motor function as you want it, without damaging anything. Some controllers are programmable, so they have some options you can change. For example, there is an adjustable low-voltage cutoff that will automatically turn off the motor if the battery gets below a certain charge to prevent damage from over-discharging.
Controllers are usually rated by the amount of current they can handle. For example, I have a 60 Amp controller. This is good for my 3, Watt motor because it means that the controller will never be pushed beyond its limits. The throttle lets you control the motor while riding. The most common types are twist throttles like on a motorcycle and thumb throttles which you press with your thumb.
This is largely a matter of preference, although thumb throttles are generally considered safer. More on this in the "Safety" step near the end. This was my first experience with tubeless tires. Tubeless tires are exactly what they sound like: they have a similar outer, tough rubber to standard tubed tires, but the exterior tire is actually airtight.
Tubeless tires require a sealant that kind of looks like watery vanilla pudding to fill any tiny gaps where air might escape.
Park Tools has a super helpful video on this process. I highly recommend all of their bike videos. I learned a lot for this project just by watching those. There are a couple different types of fork tubes the part that goes up through the frame , so make sure you get the one that's compatible with your frame. There are fancy tools for installing forks, but I found a soft rubber mallet, a flat head screwdriver, and some patience were sufficient. This is another one of those steps where I could write a mildly helpful essay of text explaining the installation process, or you could watch a short video and get it immediately.
Here's a decent video from Global Cycling Network to get you started.